Day 27 Algona Mills to Sault Ste Marie

Tuesday 15th June
Daily mileage 95miles Average Speed 14.1mph Ride Time 6hr45min
Total Mileage 926
Our longest ride so far and actually my longest ride ever! Today we had the sun, an easterly wind and a long straight road which makes for a nice long ride. We set off at 9am for a short 8 mile ride into Blind River for a subway breakfast and a supermarket sweep. Not long after leaving Kris noticed that my back wheel was wonky and sure enough Betty (my bike) was injured with a broken spoke with a long way to go until a bike shop! We continued on gingerly through Iron Bridge and Sowerby west on highway 17 until we reached Thessalon after 45 miles.
We came across a motel which was empty and had some picnic benches up near the road. We asked if we could sit to rest and eat our sandwich and tried to buy a can of pop and a coffee, when they thought we were only ordering one coffee they told us that we could not stay there so we told them to poke their coffee. After nearly a month here they were the rudest and least hospitable of the lot and we were really quite angry.
We travelled on until we reached Bruce Mines where we stopped in a café named Huron Horizons where we chatted with 3 lovely ladies that made us feel better by sharing equally nasty stories about the same motel. At least it was not just us they took a disliking to. We carried on past Desbarats to Echo Bay where we took the old highway 17b that was quieter than the new 4 lane section. We stopped here for another short break to attempt to get the feeling back in our bums then tackled the final 15 miles into Sault Ste Marie.

We had arranged to camp behind Andres Bike shop whom we met on warm showers. As we arrived we met Kerry who looks after the campers who showed us to the camp spot. There are 2 other tents here so we dined with Steve and Doug to enjoy a Walmart takeaway, shower then bed absolutely shattered and itching from ant and mossie bites.

Day 26 Whitefish Falls to Algona Mills

Monday 14th June
Daily mileage 70miles Average Speed 12.50mph Ride Time 5hr34min
Total Mileage 831

Last night it rained a lot we stayed dry in the summerhouse but it had a tin roof so the sound was amplified! It sounded louder than those damn African Horns being used in the world cup! Anyway we made it through the night and joined Sheila and David for a lovely breakfast and made use of their shower. Thanks to you both for your kind hospitality. We finally made it on the road at 10am when it was still spitting and cool but it could have been worse.

We rode the first leg of today’s journal up some hills on highway 6 for 15 miles to Espanola where we used the internet in the public library then took a side road named Lee Valley Road to Massey. This road was paved for 90% of the way but the road condition in parts meant you had to constantly concentrate on avoiding the holes etc. With the wind behind us and the sun now gloriously shining we had clocked up 33 miles when we stopped in Massey for some lunch then determined to make use of the Easterly wind we put the pedal to the metal with a mere loo break until we hit Algona Hills some 35 miles later in under 2 hours! We did this in record time but this does not mean that our shoulders, legs and bums especially are not still in agony. We stopped here just for a cold pepsi and to be horizontal for a few minutes when we realised it backed onto the beautiful lake lauzon that had a swimming area and a campsite!

The kind owners Allan and Karen gave us a $5 dollar discount as we are cycling with the hope of raising money for cancer research… thanks so much! With free wifi we were sold and before setting up tent Kris had an attempt at some somersaults off the pontoon but soon realised his age when his back was red raw from the poor landings! We had only stopped 10 miles short of our intended destination this evening which was a picnic area on the side of the busy route 17 west so we think we definitely made the right decision as it is perfect here.

Day 25 Little Current to Whitefish Falls

Sunday 13th June
Daily mileage 20miles Average Speed 12.8mph Ride Time 1hr32min
Total Mileage 761

We woke to beautiful sunshine and a clear blue sky which we are pleased to see of course but we have planned a short ride today to a warm showers host as it was meant to be raining again. In hindsight we should of perhaps stopped to watch the game yesterday in little current and then continued on to Whitefish Falls but at least two easy days will recharge our batteries for next week.

On the road at 11am being checkout time from the motel, we headed north on route 6 to Whitefish falls. With only a brief stop at a lookout point we made it all the way in one bash. The riding conditions were perfect and the scenery was some of the best so far. It was simply beautiful with lakes all around us. Whitefish falls is actually on the bay of islands and our hosts David and Sheila live in a lovely house on the lake edge. We are sleeping in their summerhouse tonight which is just mesh so it may be a bit fresh but the birds are singing and there are deer walking about outside with the moon reflecting off the lake is gorgeous.

We arrived here at noon and Kris took a quick dip in the lake before we had lunch. After, we borrowed their canoe and paddled down to the falls where we enjoyed a small ice cream that was huge in the very hot sun. Paddling back was into the wind but still enjoyable. Our arms now also ache but not quite as much as our legs. We had a lovely home cooked pasta and rhubarb crumble and learned of Hamilton winning the grand prix then settled to bed where a cockroach just run over my sleeping bag. Sweet dreams!

Day 24 Manitowaning to Little Current

Saturday 12th June
Daily mileage 23miles Average Speed 11.1mph Ride Time 2hr04min
Total Mileage 741

We had probably the worst thunder storm so far last night. Several hours of rain, wind and thunder and lightening right overhead was enough to keep us awake most of the night and provoked me to have a paddy in the night, something along the lines of I’ve had enough!
Thankfully the rain had stopped as we packed up the tent and made our way to the local coffee shop for a bagel breakfast. It was spitting with an Easterly wind whereas we were heading North today. So on our 23 mile ride this morning we stopped at High falls for a quick picture and 10 mile point lookout for another quick picture.

There was a long downhill into Little Current but we also climbed gradually for a lot of the way. On the long downhill we bypassed a man cycle touring in the opposite direction so we were gutted we were not able to stop and share stories. Basically because we wanted to utilise the downhill by free rolling as far as possible together with the fact our brakes don’t stop us while going down hill as the bikes are too heavy!

At little current we stopped and treated ourselves to a motel as Kris wanted to watch the USA v England match and I wanted a nice shower and a bed. Kris had a hair and beard trim with a lovely old gentleman who ran a barbers in the basement of a pub. He had to apologise due to his body odour and bugs in his beard! Feeling human again we had lunch, watched the game and slept sweetly, it feels nice to rest our legs with a short day.
　

Day 23 Lions Head to Manitowaning

Friday 11th June
Daily mileage 55miles Average Speed 11.44mph Ride Time 4hr51min
Total Mileage 718

Alarm sounded at 5.30am and we were on the road at 6.30am, our earliest start yet made easier by a beautiful sunrise over the lake. We rode for 15miles up the number 6 where we stopped at a closed gas station for a jam roll breakfast with an apple then rode a further 15 miles to Tobermory, the town where we catch the ferry to South Baymouth. We had a quick coffee stop at an Indian Gift shop drive through which was random. We had intended to get there early enough to catch the 1.30pm ferry and we had made great time by arriving at 11am.
We cycled to the viewpoint where we climbed a tower to catch a great view of all the neighbouring islands. Well done to Kris who conquered a fear to reach the top with the stairs being open metal did not help. There is one particularly nice island called flowerpot island and we considered taking a tour there and camping the night but apparently all the campgrounds are closed as a bear was seen swimming there and until they see it leaving… no camping!
So we chilled and had lunch while using the ferry terminals internet before boarding. Kris purchased 12 cookies which were delicious and we seem to have turned into a couple of cookie connoisseurs recently. The sun was amazing as we sat on the deck for the 1hr45min crossing where the water was beautifully clear. The actual ferry ride was only 25miles by the way and was necessary as the land ended! We arrived and waited a bit while the cars piled off the ferry then cracked on for 20 miles without a stop to Manitowaning which we were very pleased to see at 6.30pm when we had been told yet another thunderstorm was on its way. Unfortunately, it was like a ghost town and the few people we met were not inviting.
As we were almost giving up we saw a single poppy in a lady’s garden then we asked in a motel on the edge of town and Kris managed to sweet talk the lady into letting us camp on her grass behind the closed motel down the road rather than pay $90 to stay in her motel. Our luck remains! We set up camp just as it started spitting and were in bed ready to sleep by 8pm!
Today I would like to mention that I not only got a fly in my eye, I also ate a fly while cycling which was nasty as you can imagine. The road this side of the ferry has cracks in the tarmac running across the road every 5meters or so which creates a rhythmic thudding every few turns of the wheel which is simply enough to make you scream! This is our second night without showers and a lot of cycling in between. We smell and are hairy and my hay fever eyes are driving me mad.
　

Day 22 Walter Falls to Lions Head

Thursday 10th June
Daily mileage 65miles Average Speed 11.4mph Ride Time 5hr42min
Total Mileage 663

The lovely couple who hosted us last night invited us in for a fabulous breakfast and a shower while the tent dried out from last nights thunder storm. Just before we left at 8.30am we sat on their deck watching tiny humming birds feeding, they were amazing as you could hear them before you could see them with their wings flapping so fast.

On the way out of the village we visited the actual water falls at Walter Falls then headed up to Rockford 15 miles up the road. Just as our bellies were rumbling we came across a restaurant aptly named… empty bellies?? We stopped for an almighty breakfast with bottomless tea and coffee… delicious and just hit the spot. It consisted of 3 eggs, 2 sausages 3 slices of toast, 2 bacon, ham, and fried potatoes. The scary part is we did not even feel full after!

We cracked on tackling the undulating hills in the fresh head wind avoiding the busy route 6 and managed as far as Woseley after 35 miles where we had to stop as the road turned into a dirt road and the grass looked too inviting as the sun had shown itself. We slept for an hour and woke to find a man on a horse and cart just passing us who we asked for directions that included paved roads.

We made it to Wiarton after 44 miles where we stopped for a supermarket sweep and rested our bums then back on the saddle we took route 9 for 20 miles up to Lions Head and we were glad to see it! Our legs ached after yesterdays and today’s effort and we were tired. We found a campground but the office was closed so we sat and enjoyed the last of the sun throwing stones in the water. Actually we were playing a game trying to hit a rock in the water and guess what, I won, so Kris has to put up the tent tonight.

We stopped at the local pub for a beverage while we waited for dark to put the tent up and we shall be leaving early. We chatted to a couple that donated $20 for Cancer Research… thanks so much! We popped round the corner to the fish and chip shop to use their internet until they turned it off! Bugger. We shall sleep well tonight.

I also wanted to mention that yesterday I had a panic attack when I was climbing a hill very slowly and an eagle was hovering over my head I was sure it was going to attack, Kris thought I was mad. Kris wanted to mention about our movie nights in the tent and story telling on the bike. We are very high tech watching the latest releases with great sound each night in the tent to relax. The story telling on the bike is where we take it in turns to tell a story either from past travels or a fictional tale to keep our own and each others mind off cycling during the mentally struggling times.

Day 21 Cheltenham to Walter Falls

Wednesday 9th June
Daily mileage 79miles Average Speed 12.5mph Ride Time 6hr22min
Total Mileage 598

Wow… what a ride… our longest so far by miles! Pat got up at 4.30am and we made it up at 6.30am. We had a lovely breakfast and was on the road by 7.30am. Pat was showing us some photos she had taken of a TV series that was filmed in her garden just yesterday! Its called Covert Affairs and it has the girl from Coyote Ugly in it and the bloke from ER. Cant believe we missed it.
As we left it was raining quite hard and demanded several layers of clothing to keep warm but it was difficult not to get too warm and start sweating. It was made even more difficult by the hills that we had to tackle for about the first 20 miles. Just up the road we stopped at Caledon Badlands which are clay hills that are a local tourist attraction and were quite cool. We took a few photos in the rain mean while our feet were building up a layer of clay so we were a few inches taller by the time we left. This caused issues for the rest of the day with the cleats on the bottom of our shoes that clip into the pedals.
We stopped after 18 miles at Orangeville in a shop to get warm and dry out with a hot coffee. After half hour we forced ourselves back out into the cold, wet and winds. We actually had the wind behind us for the first time on the trip and we relished it. It was blowing from the South East which was perfect. There is one main road the number 10 heading NE which is where we are heading but its busy with trucks and no hard shoulder so we spent all day finding smaller white roads that run either West, East or North so we were never really going in the exact direction we wanted but it was worth the extra distance for the quieter roads. This was made more difficult as some of the roads were unpaved but equally our ride was made easier thanks to the maps from Terry yesterday.
We stopped after 38 miles in Dundalk for more fuel then carried on still in the drizzle until we stopped after 60 miles to talk to a couple planting plants in the Rotary Club Park, they said we could camp there but it was still too early to stop so we carried on. After 70 miles we stopped on the side of the road just past Markdale for more fuel and a rest. As we stopped we got cold so we carried on for a further 12 miles into Walter Falls which is a tiny village but as we entered we came across tonnes of people wandering about.
There was a dinner being prepared in the community centre for the villagers and I wandered in and chatted to the bloke on the desk and asked if there were any camp grounds around. He said we could camp in his field down the street past the church and the 2 cemeteries and his is the only house in the road. So we headed there and set up the tent. Kris cleaned the bikes thoroughly with his hose to remove the clay and grime from the unpaved roads and then we relaxed for a bit in his beautiful gardens as the sun finally showed itself for the first time today.
Today was our first experience of long straight open roads that went to the horizon and further. On days like today it did not phase us as the wind was with us but we dread the day they are against us. We also noticed the isolation for the first time. As we head north it is apparent we are on our own for long periods in the middle of nowhere and it was quite intimidating where you could see for miles in all directions and could see nobody.