Day 64 Burlington to Cody

Thursday 22nd July
Daily mileage 39miles Average Speed 12.8mph Ride Time 3hr02min
Total Mileage 2586

It was quite funny last night as we saw a group of lads walking their sheep and also out of the entire park we chose exactly the best spot to pitch the tent as when we were laying inside we suddenly heard the sprinklers start pretty much everywhere except where we were! I would like to say different but I’m afraid it was better luck than judgement! After a windy night we just about managed to drag ourselves out of the tent and on the bikes for 6am at sunrise.

We had to head just 4miles north than 33 miles West today into Cody. As we did the 4 miles North we were facing a very nasty looking black rain cloud and we cycled as fast as possible to get to the junction where we could turn West into the nice bright blue sky and hope that the nasty cloud would stay behind us.

As we clocked up the miles the sky looked so huge as there was nothing around us except flat plains. However, we did manage to see a dead rattle snake, a live grass snake, a big horn deer that was sprinting alongside us for a fair distance and the cherry on the cake was a load of wild horses or mustangs frolicking in the grasses which was awesome to see.

With only one short stop to regain feeling in our bums we made it to ‘Cody is Rodeo’ which is the town at the base of Yellowstone National Park and was made famous by Buffalo Bill Cody who took the Wild West Show to Europe. We headed straight for the Chamber of Commerce where we met Kathy who is also a Rotarian. We had noticed on the way into town that their Rotary meeting was today at noon and after a short chat with Kathy she had invited us to stay at her home for a couple of nights to recuperate and plan our Yellowstone visit.

We went to an outfitters to purchase Bear Spray for protection when riding through the park and grabbed some pancakes for breakfast then met Kathy and her husband Howard at the Rotary meeting for lunch. Kris did another short great speech and we were donated $25 from some of the members, thank you! We popped to the cycle shop and had to purchase another new tyre for Kris as his front tyre was showing warning spots this time and we are unsure of when we will come across another town let alone another bike shop!

We met up with Kathy again who took us over to the Buffalo Bill Historical Centre and we spent the next couple of hours wandering around the 5 separate museums, the firearms, Western Art, Buffalo Bill, Plains Indians and Natural History. All of which were very interesting and interactive. We then grabbed some delicious ice cream and watched the staged Gun Fight in the street that was horribly bad acting and had a quick nose in the Irma Hotel which is was built by Cody and named after his daughter. There was a cherry wood bar in there given to him by Queen Victoria as reward for his travelling show to England.

Kathy then drove us out to the nightly rodeo where cowboys from all over USA come to compete and gain rankings to tour Nationally and so the standard was great. We were not really sure what to expect but it was fantastic and we could not keep our eyes of it and got really involved with the rowdy crowd. Cody is very patriotic and there was the National Anthem and time to commemorate the soldiers which is a common theme.

There where cowboys riding Mustangs and Bulls one handed and it was very vicious. There was one guy who got flung off the bull and it stamped on his chest and he was practically carried off the arena. There was a 5yr old girl that won the under 12 barrel racing and the way she was controlling that horse and flying around the barrels was jaw dropping as it really should not have even been possible let alone her winning! At one point all the children under 12 in the crowd were invited into the arena where they let loose 3 calves with red ribbon on their tails and there must have been 100 kids playing chase the calf! It was so fun to watch but a health and safety nightmare!

Back at Kathy’s we met Ludden the dog and had some dinner at 10.30pm and sat chatting with Howard about the park and with his lifetime of experience of living here and exploring the park and Kathy’s knowledge of working in the Visitor Information Centre we are definitely in the right place to get advice about our visit to the park.

Below is an approximate route we have taken so far and where we are going.


View Pedal Plodders: State by State 2010 in a larger map

Day 63 Ten Sleep to Burlington

Wednesday 21st July
Daily mileage 68miles Average Speed 12.8mph Ride Time 5hr21min
Total Mileage 2547

We are camping on a campsite that is also a ranch and the horses which are kept a short stone throw from our tent were being attended to before 6am so we had no choice but to wake and made it to the gas station for coffee and on the road at 7am. We cycled 20miles along a very quiet county road to a t junction where we turned left for 15miles into Manderson. A deer was spooked by us passing and was running along side us for a while on the road edge then jumped the barrier with such ease and cut right in front of us and up the cliff on the other side of the road.
The terrain was awesome and very varied. To the right there were plains of green lush fields with the backdrop of the mountains and to the left was big red cliffs that reminded us of Ayres rock. The road was quite flat with the occasional hill but actually we were declining without realising it. I have mentioned before how we can smell the road kill before we see it, well I don’t think I mentioned about how much Skunks stink as road kill. We always try to hold our breath until we pass it but with a skunk its just impossible and its wretched.

At Manderson we stopped in a café for breakfast and bottomless coffee which we deserved as we had clocked up 35miles before 9am! Continuing we clocked up a further 12 miles North along the Greybull River downhill into Basin where we had a short stop to grab a few bits from the market. The road here was very odd, long and straight with flat land either side that was very baron with no colour anywhere, strange. We carried on now west for 12 miles on very slow road surface of loose gravel into Otto which was like a ghost town and we were very aware of the rain clouds on the horizon. Speaking of rain clouds, I noticed today that I still have my bruises on my arms from the hale stones last week!
　
Despite a forecast today of Easterly winds with no rain, we had rain and a Westerly wind which is in our face of course! We put our rain jackets on and continued a further 10 miles into Burlington where we crashed in Gramma’s Café for more coffee and pie. We got chatting to some customers and they called the maintenance man for the town who said we could camp in the park and he drove over to unlock the restrooms for us.
We had planned on making it a 100 miles today into Cody but with the rain and wind in our face and nasty road surface it has been a tough morning and so we set up tent at 3pm and watched a movie or two with take away pizza from the café!

Day 62 Big Horn National Park to Ten Sleep

Tuesday 20th July
Daily mileage 48miles Average Speed 11.8mph Ride Time 4hr04min
Total Mileage 2479

We packed up tent and managed to have some breakfast as the food bag was thankfully still in the tree this morning. It rained a few times last night but we did not hear any other wildlife. We got on the road at 9am and started climbing again immediately. After the initial long 7% climb yesterday we then had a series of up and downs where we had to cross 4 creeks. These made it quite tough as you feel great to make it to the top then you just want to stay there, not go back down again as you know there is another incline lurking round the corner!
After the 4 creeks we actually levelled out a bit and there were more rolling hills for nearly 15miles. It was a more pleasant temperature as we were high enough for it to be quite fresh and there was enough cloud to stop the sun beating on us too hard. The wind had turned to be in our face but it was not too strong and we were protected from it by the pines and high peaks all around.
We stopped at a Mountain View that was simply awe inspiring. It took your breath away and if it was not for all the mosquitoes we could have stayed staring at it all day! We had one more significant climb up to the pass at 9,666ft! We stopped for photos and to absorb the surroundings when we were given water, soda, chewy bars, more water and $70 of donations by 3 couples that we got chatting to at the summit. Thanks so much to all of you!
We set off on the descent but only made it 1mile before we had another climb! That was not the plan! However, at the top of that climb we saw a sign for an 18mile descent! Excellent! With a quick check of the brakes and after putting on a jacket we braced ourselves for an almighty down hill! With Kris zooming off I meandered down and we both enjoyed every minute despite experiencing cramp in my fingers from braking so much! We stopped at every other turn in the road for another picture as the scenery was just spectacular.

There were rivers, massive towering cliffs, pine valleys and lakes, good stuff. We stopped in Deer Have Lodge for a coffee and pie and ice cream and had a nice chat with Noel our waitress and petted Earl the gorgeous puppy. As we rolled right to the bottom our ears had popped and we were roasting as the temperature was now back in the 90’s but at least the mosquitoes had hidden for a bit!
We stopped in Ten Sleep at the convenience store for a drink and considered what to do next, do we continue and if so where to? We decided to camp here instead and as we put up the tent we met a fellow cycle tourist Philip who is camping next to us and has also come from New York and left the same time as us, how random. As we sit here chilling I think to myself, America should have named these the ’Huge Great Big Horns’.

Copy and paste the following link to see the details of our route

http://connect.garmin.com/activity/41216444

Day 61 Buffalo to Big Horn National Park

Monday 19th July
Daily mileage 20miles Average Speed 6.7mph Ride Time 3hr05min
Total Mileage 2431

We had a lazy morning checking out at 10.30am and headed into town to the sports outfitters to pick up a water filter. We also did a quick supermarket sweep to ensure we had enough supplies for the mountains. On the way out of town we stopped in the National Park Information Centre and fired a million questions at them about both the Big Horns and Yellowstone. I didn’t really like any of the answers that we were given as they were all about big wildlife and even bigger up hills.

Having recovered from my anxiety attack, we set off towards the foothills of the Big Horns and basically starting tackling in granny gear the 7% gradient climb. With many a stop, some electrolyte jelly and with the wind actually behind us, we were making progress. We stopped at a creek to test out the new water filter that appears excellent but we are testing it out on Kris first as this is not really the place you want to find yourself feeling ill!

After about 16miles we came across South Fork Lodge where we stopped for coffee, iced water and fries. It was getting late and the sun had hidden itself behind a fair bit of cloud coverage so we only continued for 4 more miles before pulling off the highway onto Sour Dough Creek which had been highly recommended to us as a great wild camping spot. We set up tent right by the creek and barley stuck a toe in as the water was freezing and it was starting to get chilly.

We watched two movies in the tent and hung the food back in a tree the other side of the creek. Unfortunately, the only wildlife we have seen so far today is a deer. We are now quite high up and in amongst the mountains which have been really pretty. We are camping in a valley with pine trees all around, and Kris is in his element being out in the wilderness with nobody else around.

Copy and paste the following link to see a more detailed analysis of our route

http://connect.garmin.com/activity/41216440

Day 60 Gillette to Buffalo

Sunday 18th July
Daily mileage 71miles Average Speed 11.9mph Ride Time 5hr58min
Total Mileage 2411

As we had a comfy bed we didn’t leave until 8am which still isn’t too bad considering. We had a coffee and muffin in the gas station and hit the interstate which we continued to ride on all day. The only alternative was the highway but it added on another 30miles and went way out of our direction. Between Gillette and Buffalo it is 70miles and there are no towns. It is our longest ride to date with nothing in between. This means we had packed our lunch and carried as much water as possible.
With a Southerly wind we were heading West all day and slightly South in the morning. We had our music on from the onset and plodded out the first 10 miles before a quick break then a further 10miles before another quick break. These breaks are on the roadside at junctions where we can sit on the floor more safely away from the traffic. Actually its not so bad riding on the interstate. There is more traffic than normal but nothing compared to home and our hard shoulder is clean for the most part and is so wide we practically have our own lane. When the trucks and massive campers pass us their drag pushes us along a bit which helps too!
Back on the road we did an 18mile stretch which was easier as it was mostly downhill and we caught our first glimpse of the Big Horn Mountains, they are huge and are snow capped which is really worrying as we are boiling which means they must be really high! We had a nice long break at a rest area and a sleep in the shade from the sun that today is in the mid 90’s! As we woke, a gentleman approached us to give us some electrolyte bars and some coke, thanks so much, you really helped us through the rest of the day!
As we left we climbed a rather large incline to the top of the ridge at the hottest part of the day and plodded another 20miles to a parking area on the roadside. We had nearly run out of water and we asked a guy for a refill and he kindly gave us two bottles of chilled fresh water we guzzled it down it tasted so good! Then as he drove off another car pulled up and Jeff and Kay offered us more water and some cookies. They also said a prayer for us and I hope it helps for me to climb the Big Horns tomorrow.
We made the final 10miles into Buffalo where we past some prairie dogs and again thought we deserved a motel. After asking about 10 different places we decided they are all too expensive. On the way to a campground we thought we would ask one last time in Big Horn Motel in Downtown where Trudy the receptionist was lovely and friendly and offered us a room for a discounted price and some free fudge so we snapped it up! A quick supermarket sweep and a nice relaxing night in. We got chatting to a bloke on a motorcycle out front and he suggested we buy a water filter from town before heading in the mountains so we can drink stream water which is a brilliant idea so we are off shopping in the morning before tackling the huge pass.

Day 59 Devils Tower to Gillette

Saturday 17th July
Daily mileage 62miles Average Speed 11.5mph Ride Time 5hr24min
Total Mileage 2340

On the road at 6am before the mass of campers, heat and wind we tackled the steep climb out of the Devils Tower campground. Granny gear and a lot of plodding we made it to the top then after 5miles or so of slight up and downs we had another climb up to join the highway 14 loop road back to parallel the interstate. After 15miles we stopped in Carlile which believe it or not had a population of 2! We stopped for a coffee and chatted to the nice couple with a positive attitude!
The road went from being windy through hills and trees to completely flat plains and a long straight road. We were actually cycling along the flat at about 25mph at one point which was awesome. As we are quiet we surprise deer on the road side and they run along beside us really close.
At Moorcroft we stopped for a break having clocked up 32 miles and asked a sheriff whether it is allowed to cycle on the interstate in Wyoming and he had no idea, locals all said they have seen cyclists on there so we should not have a problem. After a further 15miles along the flat again we arrived in Rozet to escape the heat we stopped for a drink in a bar which had a strippers joint in a trailer in the car park! Back on the road for the last 15mile stretch we arrived in Gillette at 2pm! It seemed really early to stop but we had done enough for one day.

We had decided to treat ourselves to a motel so headed for a few mama and papas places but the price was quite expensive so we thought if we were going to pay that price we should look for a nicer place so we enquired in the Best Western and it seemed that all the prices were double what they are normally. We soon found out that the National High School Rodeo Championships were in town and so all prices had been hiked up. As we moaned to the receptionist a guy overheard the conversation and offered us to stay at his house!

We accompanied Steve back to his place and met his Fiancee Amber who kindly showed us to our room. We had actually arrived on a night where Steve was hosting a BBQ for his employees of his Mining Company. We enjoyed a great night meeting all the guys and drinking too much! Thanks to you both for putting us up and making us feel so welcome in your new home.

Day 58 Beulah to Devils Tower

Friday 16th July
Daily mileage 46miles Average Speed 10.01mph Ride Time 4hr34min
Total Mileage 2278

We were on the road at 7am but the wind had already started and we kicked ourselves for having not got up at 5am instead. With another direct headwind we plodded at about 6mph and even had to cycle downhill into the wind. It was only 18miles into Sundance but we climbed about 1,500ft and fought for every bit of it. We are now reaching approx 5,000ft in elevation and we can feel the air getting thinner.

At Sundance we were drained, simply exhausted. We had a pit stop and hid from the sun for longer than normal and deliberated with the thought of splitting up where I would head straight down the interstate to Moorcroft and check into a motel while Kris would take the longer hillier route to Devils Tower to see the National Monument and he would meet me in Moorcroft the next day. After a while I decided I could not miss out on the highlight so despite adding nearly 30 miles to the trip and lots more hills we set off on highway 14 into the hills.

At least by heading West it was a prettier ride and we were protected from the wind by the hills. We climbed two major hills that seemed to go on forever but they were a gradual climb for the most part and we got there eventually. I was struggling with the thought of the diversion but Kris is right its not about getting from coast to coast as soon as possible its all about seeing the highlights along the way.

We could see Devils Tower poking its head above the hills from the distance and as we arrived at its base we realised just how massive it is and how it is so odd sticking out from the landscape. It had been formed by magma from the earths crust forcing its way up as the surrounding softer earth had eroded. Or the Native Americans believe that there were 7 sisters and 1 brother long ago that were playing out when the brother turned into a bear and chased the sisters. The girls climbed a tree and the earth under the tree began to rise pushing the sisters to safety in the sky and they now form the 7 stars of the big dipper. I like this tale better.

At the base of the tower we set up tent and I relaxed while Kris still full of energy continued to ride up to the tower and hike the base trail. He saw little prairie dogs which look really cute. I’m quite happy to sit in the air conditioning and see it towering above me instead! The Devils Tower was a Devil of a Tower to cycle to!